In which Lis leaves Scotland and journeys to the Yorkshire Dales, whereupon she met a cow and calf. I went to visit Chris, the other backpacker who I met in Inuvik 20 years ago, who is now in Yorkshire with his family. The first night I arrived at sunset they took me up to the Cow and Calf rock formations up on the hill above the city. For the first time, they realised that there’s a pair of lips on the rock! Chris also got me to climb up a rock face I never would have dared if it was light out. By (near full) moonlight, we also went up…